Monkfish

Monkfish is perfect for this recipe because it doesn’t fall apart. It has a wonderfully tender and succulent texture similar to lobster, but monkfish is less expensive. This dish is also good with other types of fish and other kinds of seafood, such as scallops, shrimp, or lobster.

It is a good idea to roll up and fry one of these fish balls before forming the whole batch. You can check the seasoning and add a little salt and pepper if you like before you cook them all. Cooking a little sample is a good thing to keep in mind when you’re making meatballs, too.

In this recipe we use the olive sauce both to glaze the fish during roasting and to serve alongside it. It has an elusive sweet, savory flavor that will have your dinner guests smiling. It’s also a good use of leftover coffee. Leftover sauce is wonderful with grilled steaks and tossed over roasted potatoes.

I like to make this dish with cod, but other fish such as bream, turbot, monkfish, and grouper may also be used.

In the coastal areas of Basilicata, the varied catch of the day is the basis of this uncomplicated yet very tasty fish soup. Here I recommend using monkfish and grouper fillets, both with firm texture, so they won’t fall apart in the zuppa. Halibut is another good choice. Indeed, many varieties of fish and shellfish can be prepared this way, as long as you adjust the cooking time so the flesh remains intact and avoid overcooking. If using clams or mussels, use a wider pot, so the shells do not break the meaty fish as they open. For a more substantial dish, place a slice of grilled or toasted country bread, or a few slices of spicy potato, Patate Lessate con Diavolicchio (page 302), in each soup bowl before ladling in the zuppa di pesce.

I love all kinds of Italian fish soups, having sampled countless versions of zuppa di pesce, served with just enough tomatoey sauce to slurp up with a spoon, as well as brodo di pesce, a flavorful fish stock usually with nothing but rice. A new discovery for me, though, was this Molisano version of brodo di pesce, with chard and peppers floating between chunks of seafood in a savory broth. Served with grilled bread or a slab of grilled polenta, it is indeed a complete meal. Relish it with a glass of crispy white wine from the region’s distinctive Falanghina grape varietal, and you can taste Molise beckoning you.

Traditional chowders all start off with a hearty soup base of onions and potatoes, and that makes a good soup just by itself. To this fragrant base you then add chunks of fish, or clams, or corn, or whatever else seems appropriate. (Note: You may leave out the pork and substitute another tablespoon of butter for sautéing the onions.)

Don't worry if the fat seems a bit high—it's mostly the heart-healthy kind from the fish.

The two-step method of searing and then roasting this thick fillet is what keeps the fish succulent.

Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 2 hr Though fig leaves keep the fish moist and make for a great presentation, it's also delicious without them. (Note that fig leaves are not edible.)

Team the fish with steamed rice and sautéed spinach, and pour a Sauvignon Blanc.

The Mediterranean fish soup bourride is something like a bouillabaisse but has a consistency more like stew. Instead of putting the aïoli directly into the soup, as is traditional, Adams likes to dollop it onto toasts.

A 1980 charter signed by 11 restaurants (7 in Marseille) dictates what kinds of fish form the basis of an authentic local bouillabaisse. These are generally unavailable here, so we suggest using the freshest nonoily fish you can get, preferably three to five different kinds. As long as we were taking liberties, we also added lobster and used fennel fronds in place of pastis. And though the broth and croutons are usually served separately from the fish itself in Marseille, we enjoyed everything together. Active time: 1 1/4 hr Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr

It's interesting, sophisticated fare like this that keeps Roly's Bistro constantly crowded. Restaurateur Roly Saul and chef Colin O'Daly are Dublin fixtures.

A taverna standard, saganaki (fried cheese slices) is named for the two-handled pan it's cooked in. Here, the cheese is melted to make a sauce for fish. Chef Costas Spiliades uses a medium-textured feta, such as Mt. Vikos or Dodoni brands, for this dish. He also uses a Greek Chardonnay, Katsaros, which is sold at some U.S. wine shops. Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 30 min

The most popular dish on the menu at The Atlantic Inn. It is served with sautéed bacon and radicchio and Honey Mustard Sauce .