Broccoli Rabe

Small ditalini and well-cooked broccoli di rape are all you need to make a delicious, warm, nourishing, and comforting dish—moist and almost soupy in consistency. Of course, you need the basic seasoning of the Basilicata cook, too: olive oil, garlic, lots of peperoncino, and pecorino. If you feel the need to add more to this simple dish, slivers of chicken breast can cook right in the pot with the ditalini and will give a meaty substance. Another natural addition would be cubes of provola just before serving (see Wedding Soup, page 299, for tips on adding provola to a soupy dish).

Here’s my version of our family’s favorite Umbrian road food: the torta al testo (or crescia) baked and served at Il Panaro, the outdoor eatery and truck stop near Gubbio (see this chapter’s introduction). The unique wood-oven-baked character of the Il Panaro torta is hard to replicate in the home kitchen, yet I’ve found that baking the breads in a cast-iron skillet gives very nice results. The dough is easy to mix and shape, so even if you’re a bread-baking novice you’ll have success with this one.

Vinny Dotolo & Jon Shook, Animal, Los Angeles, California
James Birch, Flora Bella Farm, Three Rivers, California (bitter greens) In 1991, Jim started selling all sorts of his seasonal vegetables and fruit to the most popular restaurants in Los Angeles. Jon and Vinny love the flavors and textures of this dish—the smokiness of grilled bitter greens cooled with a creamy soft-cooked egg and balanced with the sweet and salty pancetta dressing, finished with a crunchy breadcrumb topping. This makes a great supper in itself. Use escarole or kale if you can't find broccoli rabe.

No surprises here: The classic combination of bitter greens and sweet sausage is as warming and comforting as the Italian grandmothers who have been making it for generations.

Fresh and a little spicy, these greens complement the more opulent dishes in this menu.

Slowly cooking the pasta risotto-style by ladling hot broth over it allows the shells to soak up all of the broth's aroma and results in a velvety, creamy texture. The bitter bite of the greens adds just enough edge.

Perfect for entertaining, this gorgeous torta—sheets of delicate crespelle layered with rich besciamella and sweet Italian sausage—won't disappoint. You'll be deliciously rewarded for your effort.

Corkscrew pasta gets a wake-up call with the unexpected übercrunch of toasted panko and a salty jolt from anchovies.

In this vibrant green dish, the bitterness of broccoli rabe comes in second place to the sweetness of the peas and the comforting familiarity of olive oil and garlic.

I am delighted to see broccoli di rape in the supermarket almost year-round and of excellent quality: fresh, bright-green stems and leaves, with tight heads of pale-green florets (don't buy any with yellowed, open flowers). I hope you are familiar with this versatile vegetable — related to both turnips and broccoli — and love its unique bitter-almond taste as much as I do. This warm salad is a particularly easy way to prepare broccoli di rape, and its mild flavor and comforting texture will please even those family members who are wary of new vegetables!

A Chinese meal is incomplete without something leafy, and this dish features a wonderful green. The pleasant bite of gai lan, or Chinese broccoli, complements stir-fried shrimp beautifully; once you've tried it, you'll be eager to cook with it again.

With its slight bitterness, broccoli rabe takes well to assertive flavors. The classic Italian recipe calls for sautéing it with plenty of garlic and crushed red pepper flakes. But for Thanksgiving we've opted for something mellower, choosing sweet raisins, pine nuts, and a bit of sherry.

This recipe is an adaptation of the wonderful smash of vegetable served on the sliced-pork sandwiches at Philadelphia's Tony Lukes. Liberated from the bread, the dish has a slight bitterness that makes a great foil for the richness of Broiled Duck Breasts with Orange Chipotle Sauce .

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Pecorino cheese brings more bold flavor to this side dish, which is an excellent complement to Broiled Veal Chops with Mixed Peppercorns.

Clyde's Restaurant Group owns several successful restaurants in the Washington, D.C., area. Tom Meyer, head of restaurant development, is especially fond of this popular dish, served with mashed potatoes at Clyde's of Chevy Chase. If you can't find broccoli rabe (an Italian green), collard greens, Swiss chard or mustard greens will work well also.

For this recipe, Lisa uses broccoli rabe, a type of bitter Italian green. But the everyday supermarket broccoli works fine, too.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.