Veal

Top-quality veal really makes a difference in this dish; meat should be cut from the leg for scalloppine.

Beef stock (often called brown stock) is no more difficult to make than chicken stock, and just a small amount of it can be used to great effect in all sorts of dishes.

(INVOLTINI DI VITELLO CON PECORINO E ACETO BALSAMIC)

(Veal Cutlets with Prosciutto and Sage) Although chef Serge Dansereau of Kables at The Regent uses thin slices of veal from a boneless veal loin, he suggests making the dish at home with veal cutlets, which are less expensive and more widely available. If the cutlets you buy are too thick, use the smooth side of a meat pounder to pound them, between sheets of plastic wrap, to less than 1/8 inch thick.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Grill the veal while the noodles boil so both are ready at the same time.

Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 4 1/2 hr

You can substitute skinless boneless chicken breasts for the veal cutlets. Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 35 min

For this recipe we used what the butcher calls the first cut or brisket cut of the veal breast — it's the thicker, upper portion.

You'll need to order this cut of veal, a two-rib chop, from your butcher. When the meat is carved, the first one or two slices may contain gristle, but after that the veal will be beautifully tender.

Active time: 1 1/2 hr Start to finish: 18 hr (includes chilling)

(NIVERNAIS)

An elegant and simple main course.

There is probably nothing more dramatic — or better to eat — than a whole veal shank. It's a showstopper; when we bring this out from the kitchen prior to carving it tableside, every head turns, and for good reason. The succulent meat and the delicious marrow are truly impressive.

An essential ingredient in their cuisine of Corfu, vinegar provides the distinctive taste in this traditional main course named "sofrito". The veal is commonly served with mashed potatoes.

The secret of making fried rice lies in the use of cold, cooked rice. Freshly cooked rice will only produce a sticky mess.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.