Halibut

Alice Marcus Solovy of Skokie, Illinois, writes: "When I was 12 years old, my mother taught me how to make my first pie crust. My father said it tasted just like his grandmother's, and I was very flattered. That's basically the story of how I started cooking. After almost a lifetime in the kitchen, I still enjoy playing around with recipes. I've even been known to go out to dinner, taste a certain dish, and then re-create it at home in a few tries."

The inspiration for this entrée comes from the Bengal delta, where fish is the food of choice. The area is also known for its use of nigella (black onion) seeds and fenugreek seeds, which are sold at Indian markets.

Even though Aux Delices des Bois left Tribeca, Thierry and I still love Zutto, the sushi bar that was near our warehouse. It dates back to when Tribeca's cast-iron canopies cast their shadows on silent streets at night. Its metal loading dock held two tables, the precursor to the neighborhood's current profusion of loading-dock cafes. One evening the sushi chef, Albert Tse, made us this special dish, using a fish from each of the seven seas. Kind of like a Japanese version of the ancient French dish Coquilles St-Jacques, it combines fin fish and aromatic oyster mushrooms with the scallops and sharpens the flavor with rice wine vinegar, soy sauce, and seaweed. If scallop shells aren't handy, use any ovenproof baking dish.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Put out a relish tray of sliced carrots, celery, gherkins and radishes, and serve sour cream mashed potatoes with the fish. Have lemon meringue tartlets afterward.

We adapted this recipe from Big Bowl Noodles and Rice, by Bruce Cost with Matt McMillin (HarperCollins). Cost likes to stuff dried black Asian"flower" mushrooms. Because these can be expensive and hard to find, we asked if we could try fresh shiitake mushrooms instead. Cost agreed, and we loved the results. Look for shiitakes with caps that have rounded edges to better hold the stuffing. Active time: 25 min Start to finish: 1 hr

Portobellos make this simple dish shine. It's from Alfred Portale's 12 Seasons Cookbook written with Andrew Friedman (Broadway Books). Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 45 min

Osso buco is a traditional Italian dish of veal shanks simmered in a pungent tomato sauce and topped with gremolata. Ming Tsai's clever version is made with fish.

This piquant Indian marinade adds depth of flavor to the sturgeon's meaty white flesh. Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 1 3/4 hr

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less but may required additional sitting time. Be sure to lightly oil the grill rack again so that it doesn’t stick.

Salmon and cod also work well.

These steaks are delicious served with creamed spinach and roasted new potatoes.

The following recipe can also be made with 1-inch-thick salmon fillets. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Whether they feature shellfish, smoked fish or fresh fish, chowders are an essential part of New England cooking. Ours is prepared with a mixture of fresh cod, haddock and halibut, three important North Atlantic ocean varieties. We've made the surprising addition of butternut squash and kale--both popular regional vegetables--to this hearty soup for extra color and texture. Curry powder lends an unexpected bit of spice.

Halibut is the largest member of the flatfish family, which also includes flounder. It should be cooked with some liquid, such as wine or broth, so the fish stays moist.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. With the fish, offer thinly sliced cucumber‑tossed in a dressing of rice vinegar and vegetable oil‑and some purchased sesame noodle salad. For dessert, side-by-side scoops of mango and raspberry sorbets look pretty sprinkled with toasted coconut. (Wasabi powder can be found in the Asian foods section of the supermarket.)