Pancake

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

David Barber, chef at Three Square Grill in Portland, Oregon, writes: "Even though I cook for a living, I still enjoy having friends over for dinner. My wife, Barbara, and I actually have the worst kitchen in the world. But that doesn't matter when you have what I consider the basics, like a good sharp chef's knife and a stand mixer. And because Barbara is a gardener, we've learned how to make impressive meals using fewer, but fresher, ingredients."

The crisp-crusted corn cakes of Colombia and Venezuela called arepas were the inspiration for these delicious sauce soppers. In their native habitats they can be found as thin as crêpes or as thick as scones; savory or sweet; plain or stuffed; fried, baked, or even grilled. We like these straight from the skillet — and they are even better made a day ahead and then reheated. But we really love them loaded up with the juices from a plateful of steak and chimichurri sauce .

(CREPES DE NOIX AUX FRAMBOISE ET FIGUES) In Provence, crepes are often served simply, embellished with sugar, jam or liqueur. Here, they get dressed up a bit more.

Vary these pancakes, if desired, by sprinkling one-fourth cup blueberries, raisins or even chocolate chips over each pancake before turning it to finish cooking.

Thick, oversize pancakes that will satisfy even the hungriest eaters.

The Indian staple cornmeal became a mainstay of Colonial cooking; European arrivals used it to stretch their scarce wheat flour. We have adopted the same tactic with our modern edition of the venerable breakfast dish, pancakes. They are, of course, also a good excuse to bring out the maple syrup, another gift from the Indians. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Even though they are most often associated with the Jewish holiday of Hanukkah, potato pancakes have a year-round appeal. Here they are given a Middle Eastern twist with the addition of flour made from chick-peas - the dominant flavor in falafel - as well as chilis, herbs and spices. Pour a dry white wine. For dessert, present fruit and some halvah. Chick-pea flour is available at Middle Eastern and Indian markets.

Aunt Jemima’s Pancake Flour, first marketed in 1899, was America’s original ready-mix food. Until the mix became nationally available in 1910, Americans thought of pancakes only as a hearty wintertime breakfast. But with the convenience offered by a mix, flapjacks were established as a quick anytime meal. Here, we’ve taken a few modern liberties with the favorite breakfast standby, with great results.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

I like to use Yukon Gold potatoes for these blini because they absorb more cream than other potatoes and thus result in the best possible texture. This recipe will make extra batter, but it's a difficult recipe to reduce. The batter is best when used immediately, but it can be made up to two hours ahead if stored in a warm place (the cream may clot if it gets too cold). Use a scale to weigh the proper amount of potatoes after puréeing them, and make the batter while the potatoes are still warm or the blini will not have the correct texture.

Serve these pancakes immediately, since they do not keep well in a warm oven.

An elegant appetizer from Fleur de Lys in San Francisco.

The New Prospect Café, a health-oriented restaurant and catering company in Park Slope, Brooklyn, includes these curried sweet potato fritters on their Hanukkah menu. Add some fresh grated ginger to the pancakes for an Asian touch. Sweet potatoes need the flour to give the pancakes body.

Hoop cheese is available at Jewish delicatessens and in the refrigerated deli section of some supermarkets.

These can be topped with caviar or smoked salmon for a special-occasion appetizer, but they are also good with fried eggs or as a side dish for grilled fish.

Ever since R.C Van Dyne from Wilmington, NC tasted farinata in Alessandria, Italy, he has been wanting to make it. We obtained this recipe from Rose Pistola restaurant in San Francisco, where they serve their own farinata. Farinata is a thin, crisp, pizzalike pancake made from chick-pea flour. When we called Rose Pistola, we were thrilled to learn that the recipe had already been reworked for the home cook by Peggy Knickerbocker, coauthor with chef Reed Hearon of The Rose Pistola Cookbook: 140 Recipes from San Francisco's Favorite North Beach Restaurant (out October, 1999 from Broadway Books). The following recipe makes three farinata, but they must be baked one at a time. We suggest opening a bottle of wine, hanging out in the kitchen with friends, and eating the farinata as they come out of the oven. For best results, use a 10-inch seasoned cast-iron round griddle, about 3/8-inch deep, that can hold about 1 cup batter. Farinata can be made in a regular cast-iron skillet, but it won't be quite as crisp or easy to remove.

Carrots, parsnips, green onions and dill make the difference in these colorful pancakes. Mix some chopped dill and green onions into sour cream to pass alongside.