Gratin

Butternut is one of my favorite squashes. We often bake a small butternut squash (about 1 pound) at home; we split it lengthwise, seed it, score the flesh with a knife, sprinkle on a little salt, and bake, skin side down, for 1 hour in a 400-degree oven. Excellent in soup and pureed, butternut squash is always welcome at our table. This gratin is quite rich and should be reserved for special occasions, like Thanksgiving.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

If you're preparing this dish as a part of your Thanksgiving meal, put this gratin in the oven once the turkey comes out.

Active time: 35 min Start to finish: 45 min

In France puréed potatoes are mixed with a local cow's-milk cheese known as Tomme Fraîche de Cantal. We've substituted fresh mozzarella — widely available in the States — to give the dish a similar consistency.

Herbed rice and sautéed cherry tomatoes are suitable accompaniments for the delicate main course.

Active time: 25 min Start to finish: 1 1/4 hr

The following dish was inspired by a gratin served at Mesa Grill in New York City. In that recipe six sweet potatoes are combined with a chipotle chili and a quart of heavy cream for a rich and delicious side dish. In our version a similarly sweet-hot balance is achieved with the addition of enchilada sauce and cheese but no cream.

Roasting the lamb on a large oven or cake rack that's placed over the gratin dish allows its succulent juices to flavor the vegetables. This spring dish is one of my favorite recipes from Bistro Cooking (Workman, 1989), by Patricia Wells.

Most vegetable gratins need to be bound with a white sauce. This is not true of gratins made from starchy vegetables, which will release enough starch to thicken the liquid around them. Here the sweet potatoes are baked first to concentrate their sweetness and then cooked a second time with just enough cream to mellow them out. This dish is an ideal accompaniment to roast poultry or pork.

This very ancient dish of pickled salmon is of Swedish origin, and considered by a great many Scandinavians to be superior to smoked salmon. It must be made with fresh fish that has never been frozen, and with a plentiful supply of fresh dill weed.

This gratin is particularly welcomed on the holiday table by those who love sweet potatoes and hate marshmallows. The cream and butter make this so delicious your guests will lie in bed and remember it happily all year long. You only serve this kind of dish once in a very long while, so the caloric intake is moderated. If your meal has too many sweet potatoes, see the variation for turnip gratin.

This recipe originally accompanied Poached Halibut with Black Truffles and Purple-Potato and Crab Gratin .

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Gratins feature a crust of melted cheese and sometimes breadcrumbs. Serve with good bread and a salad for lunch or a light dinner.