Granita

Before the storm of desserts comes the palate-cleansing calm. This playful, snowy mound of savory celery with hints of green apple and tarragon refreshes after the preceding spread. Counterintuitive as it may seem, taking a break before dessert¿to eat a pre-dessert¿will help you enjoy the sweet abundance that awaits.

Think of this marvelous first course as a savory sundae, with a pretty salad of crunchy julienned vegetables topping the icy granita. Cream Sherry adds a sweet base note to the granita, while the sharpness of Sherry vinegar accentuates the tomatoes' acidity.

The best desserts are those that manage to be sweetly satisfying while also containing an element of surprise, and this unique granita certainly fits the bill. We first had a version of it at Manhattan's Wallsé, and were stunned by the interplay among the bright, verdant mix of apple and celery with the richness of olive oil and the heat of grated horseradish. (Here, we've substituted wasabi for the horseradish.) It's a truly sophisticated way to end a meal.

At Caffè Sicilia, this granita is served for breakfast along with a brioche and a shot of espresso—a wonderful way to start the day. Unlike most other granitas, it has an almost creamy texture. (The Caffè Sicilia almond paste, though pricey, is worth it: Incredibly moist and possessing a delicate floral quality, it tastes so pure that we actually eat it by the spoonful.)

Until you've tried this dessert, you may not have tasted a pear's multiple personalities.

The vitamin C used in this recipe prevents the apple juice from browning.

Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 3 1/2 hr (includes freezing)

This granita is delicious as a palate-refresher between courses or as a dessert.

To serve as a drink, freeze until just slushy but not solid. Look for Angostura bitters in the liquor section of the supermarket.

This granita is not particularly sweet and is best served as a first or intermezzo course. Try it on top of raw oysters or thick tomato slices.

A light dessert that is made extra easy by the use of purchased fruit juice. No ice cream maker required.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less, but requires additional unattended time.

Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 7 hr

(GRANITA DI LIMONE) This Sicilian classic is churned on the eastern part of the island and stirred instead in the west. We have included instructions for both methods. The granita is (authentically) very tart. Most of us thought it was refreshing, but a couple of sweet-tooth types found it a bit too puckery. If you like your dessert on the sweeter side, increase the sugar to 1/2 cup.

In Italy, coffee granita is served in tall glasses filled halfway with granita and topped with whipped cream. We've added some white chocolate and anise-flavored liqueur.